La moda no es un eterno presente… Sino que hay que conocer su pasado tan bien como lo expone Rossana Tich en su fascinante cuenta de Instagram.
Puede que haya quien piense que esto de la moda consiste, básicamente, en estar a la última y poco más. Pero no. Cualquiera que lleve en este mundillo un mínimo de tiempo será consciente de que, como en cualquier otra area cultural, en la moda hay que conocer el pasado para entender el presente. Dicho de otra forma: está muy bien saber quiénes son Demna Gvasalia, Virgil Abloh y Gosha Rubchinskiy, pero para entender su papel en la situación actual de la moda antes deberás conocer las revoluciones llevadas a cabo por otros diseñadores como Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent o Cristóbal Balenciaga. Sin la historia no existe el futuro.
Y de eso parece hablarnos precisamente Rossana Tich desde su cuenta de Instagram @magazine_fan. La idea es sencilla: Tich es una mujer que lleva muchos pero que muchos años trabajando las relaciones públicas, el márqueting y la comunicación en el mundo de la moda y, además, posée una cantidad extrema de magazines de moda de los últimos 50 años. Tras mucho darle vueltas a cómo darle utilidad a este hobby enciclopédico, Rossana decidió abrirse una cuenta de Instagram en la que ir colgando editoriales de moda de este último medio siglo… El resultado es mucho más que fascinante.
Al fin y al cabo, al final resulta que @magazine_fan no solo te permite entender el pasado para comprender el presente, sino que además la misma Rossana Tich afirma que la narrativa interna de su cuenta de Instagram acaba probando que, en los últimos 50 años, la moda tampoco ha cambiado tanto… Sino que lo que nos ha dado esa ilusión de cambio ha sido más bien cómo se ha enfocado la moda desde la fotografía y el estilismo. Será por eso que @magazine_fan otorga tanta importancia a los fotógrafos y, de hecho, la misma Tich advierte que, si no conoce el autor de las fotos de una editorial en concreto, nunca la publicaría en su Instagram.
Sea como sea, ya iba siendo hora de que alguien se decidiera a tomer el riesgo de reivindicar el pasado en un mundo tan obsesionado con el futuro como es la moda… Nosotros ya nos hemos enganchado. Y otra cosa os decimos: ¡qué gustazo resulta aprender con las lecciones de moda de Rossana Tich! [Más inforamción en la cuenta de Instagram de @magazine_fan] [Lee una entrevista con Rossana Tich en Dazed]
Mike Berkofsky photograph for a #fashioneditorial #fursgowest in the November #1978 issue of Over 21 #magazine. Jacket, trousers and sleeveless coat (which comes with a Mac) from #Wallis, earrings by #adrienmann, lariat from the #tradingpost, gloves from #harrods, kerchief from #selfridges, wristlet from #kitsch and boots (cropped out) #maudfrizon. #hair by Robert at #Lobetta. #mikeberkofsky #photography #fashion #fashionphotography #1970s #robertlobetta #magazines #print #over21magazine @mikeberkofsky @wallisfashion @harrods @selfridges @robertlobetta @stellaberkofsky
Elisabeth Novick (spelt Novik here) photograph for a #fashioneditorial #lespritdefete in the December #1978 issue of Marie Claire #magazine. Velvet dress and bag by #pabloetdelia for #pierredalby, pearls #laportebleue and children’s style shoes (cropped out) from #missbocage. #hair by #modshair and #cosmetics by #harriethubbardayer. #aubaldesophie. This #fashionfeature has photographs by #olivierotoscani #lharmeroult and #lotharschmid as well as #elisabethnovick. I posted a beautiful pre-raphelite image in March 2016 and the #peterlindbergh #frontcover in December last year. Unfortunately, most of the fashion pages in this issue have been cut up. #photography #fashion #fashionphotography #1970s #magazines #print #marieclaire #marieclairemagazine #marieclairefrance. @modshair_paris_official @marieclairefr
Elisabeth Novick (spelt Novik here) photograph for a #fashioneditorial #lespritdefete in the December #1978 issue of Marie Claire #magazine. Velvet dress and bag by #pabloetdelia for #pierredalby, pearls #laportebleue and children’s style shoes (cropped out) from #missbocage. #hair by #modshair and #cosmetics by #harriethubbardayer. #aubaldesophie. This #fashionfeature has photographs by #olivierotoscani #lharmeroult and #lotharschmid as well as #elisabethnovick. I posted a beautiful pre-raphelite image in March 2016 and the #peterlindbergh #frontcover in December last year. Unfortunately, most of the fashion pages in this issue have been cut up. #photography #fashion #fashionphotography #1970s #magazines #print #marieclaire #marieclairemagazine #marieclairefrance. @modshair_paris_official @marieclairefr
Barry Ryan photograph for a fake fur #fashioneditorial #furfun in the October #1979 issue of Over 21 #magazine. Fake Persian lamb jacket by Chaston from #peterrobinson, jersey trousers by #louiscaring, fake mink stole by #paulhowie, gloves from #missselfridge and choker and earrings by Rosita. #hair by #paulnix and #makeup by Polly, Elke and Betsey. #snoopy dog uncredited. #barryryan #photography #fashion #fashionphotography #blackandwhitephotography #1970s #magazines #print #over21magazine @missselfridge
Christophe Kutner photograph for a #fashioneditorial #thisgirlslife in the November #1993 issue of Sky #magazine. Jacket, shorts (and boots) from #juniorgaultier, sweater by #chipie, cap from #herbertjohnson and socks from #sockshop. #fashioneditor #annemariecurtis, #hair by #colinroy #makeup by #frederik and the #model is Simone at #taketwo. #christophekutner #photography #fashion #fashionphotography #blackandwhitephotography #1990s #magazines #print #skymagazine @christophekutner_photography @jpgaultierofficial @chipie_officiel @herbertjohnsonhatters @amcelle
Marc Lebon photograph for the #surreal issue of i-D #magazine, number 57, April #1988. Dress by #nicholasgeorgiou, vase #hat by #kirstenwoodward and shoes (cropped out) by #patrickcox. #styling by #judyblame, #hair by Daniel at Cuts and #makeup by #paulstar. #marclebon #photography #fashion #fashionphotography #1980s #magazines #print #idmagazine @i_d @judyblame @nicholasgeorgiou_
Juergen Teller portrait of Gwendoline Christie for an #artsandculture feature #aforcetobereckonedwith in the December #2017 issue of British Vogue. #gwendolinechristie ‘explains why it’s her mission to subvert female stereotypes’. Dress by #viviennewestwoodcouture, shoes #christianlouboutin, #styling #poppykain, #hair #raphaelsalley and #makeup by #niamhquinn. Photographed at #thebarbican #London. #juergenteller #photography #portraitphotography #fashion #fashionphotography #actor #actress #architecture #magazines #print #newvogue #vogue #vogueuk @juergentellerpage @viviennewestwood @christianlouboutinshoes @poppykain @raphaelsalley @niamhquin @britishvogue
Matthew Rolston portrait of Julia Roberts for a #spotlight feature #realmagnolia in the October #1989 issue of Vanity Fair #magazine. Dress and earrings by #christianlacroixluxe, shoes #yvessaintlaurent, styled by #raymondlee for #cloutier. The article, written by #lynnhirschberg, focuses on the soon-to-be-released #steelmagnolias and also mentions her next project Three Thousand, ‘a whacked-out twist on Pygmalion’ with #richardgere’, which somewhere along the line became #prettywoman. #matthewrolston #photography #portraitphotography #fashionphotography #1980s #juliaroberts #actor #hollywood #celebrityphotography #actress #magazines #print #vanityfairmagazine @matthewrolstonstudio @vanityfair @julia_roberts_official @lacroixofficiel @ysl
Henry Bourne portrait of Molly Goddard for the #womenoftheyear special issue of British Harper’s Bazaar #magazine, December #2017. Photographed at #sirjohnsoanesmuseum, #mollygoddard is wearing her own design, available at #doverstreetmarket. #hair and #makeup by #amybrandon. Interview by #susielau . #henrybourne #photography #portraitphotography #fashion #fashiondesigner #britishfashion #magazines #print #harpersbazaaruk #harpersbazaar150 @henrybourne @mollymgoddard @susiebubble @amybrandonmakeup @justinepicardie @bazaaruk @doverstreetmarketlondon
Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott portrait of Lily Allen for the #hellsangels #fashioneditorial in issue 13 of Pop #magazine, autumn #2006 (October). Coat by #yvessaintlaurent, necklace #garrard and feather trim from #vvrouleaux. #fashioneditor #katiegrand, #hair by #luigimurenu and #makeup #luciapieroni. #mertandmarcus #photography #fashion #fashionphotography #lilyallen #magazines #print #popmagazine @mertalas @marcuspiggot @ysl @houseofgarrard @vvrouleaux @lucia_pieroni @luigimurenu @lilyallen @thepopmag
Paula Bullwinkel portrait of Stephen Jones for the Blitz #magazine #fashionsupplement with the April #1988 issue. The designers in the #thatspecialplace feature were photographed at their favourite #London haunt, in this case #themesandvariations #westbournegrove «I like this shop because it has glamour that you can sit on and things of pure delight». #paulabullwinkel #photography #portraitphotography #1980s #stephenjones #britishfashion #fashiondesign #magazines #print #blitzmagazine @paula_bullwinkel @stephenjonesmillinery @themesandvariations
Manfred Gestrich photograph for a #fashioneditorial #angelheart in the October #1993 issue of Sky #magazine. T-shirt by #hystericglamour from #stussy at #dufferofstgeorge, PVC trousers by #helenstorey, PVC trainers by #chipie, earrings by #jacquelinerabun and beret by #kangol. #fashioneditor #annemariecurtis, #hair by #timcrispin and #makeup by #billyb. The #model is Frances. #manfredgestrich #photography #fashion #fashionphotography #blackandwhitephotography #1990s #magazines #print #skymagazine @amcelle @stussy @dufferofficial @chipie_officiel @kangol_headwear